Tomato Sauce (John's)

Because of Chicago's crazy spring, we planted our Romas earlier than ever--May 10th!--and we already have fruits showing. That's unprecendented in 13 years of gardening, so I'm re-publishing John's gravy recipe today....he'll be using it soon. ~~Sandi

Of all the Italian sauces, tomato is the base of most familiar Italian cooking. We always called it gravy. A visit to Nana and Pop-Pops in Brooklyn also meant a walk down the block to Grandma Fanny's, where Pops' brothers and sisters would already have gathered for Sunday dinner: Uncle Danny, Uncle Ernie, Aunt Mela with Uncle Pat, Aunt Rita with Uncle Marcie, Aunt Lena, Aunt Rosie, Uncle Manny. Coming up the stairs to Grandma's apartment, the aroma caught you; open her door and be immediately warmed and soothed. Homemade sausage and a fresh provolone hung from the ceiling. "Johnny-boy," Grandma cut a slice of bread and dipped it in the bubbling gravy for you. "Biscot?" and she put a biscotti in your hand. Off to greet the great Uncles and Aunts. Uncle Ernie always had a buck or two in his fist for you to snatch from him. Uncle Pat was the funniest, nicest guy in the world.

The women all had their own methods, but the feeling of a good gravy was always the same. This recipe comes from watching Mom, but it's John's method. Sandi grows the tomatoes, basil and oregano in our garden. The spice measurements are imprecise; work it out for yourself. Always use a wooden spoon.

20 Italian plum tomatoes or two 28 oz. cans plum tomatoes, whole or crushed
2 cans unflavored Italian tomato paste
2 or 3 tbsp. olive oil
5-6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 medium onion, halved, sliced and chopped into segments
1 tbs. oregano, more or less
About 1/2 tbsp. basil
1 tsp. or so crushed red pepper
2-3 bay leaves

Heat the olive oil in the bottom of a 4-6 quart pot. Saute the onion and garlic until the onions clarify. Add tomatoes-- you can use a blender for whole tomatoes, or as Mom used to do with the canned plums, crush them with your hand. In either case, the mixture should be pulpy. Add the paste, along with two paste cans of water, and stir until the paste is blended. Add the salt, pepper, spices and bay leaves, stir in four cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Leaving the pot uncovered will reduce the sauce more quickly. I like to leave the spoon in the pot to prop the lid open; this will also season the spoon nicely. Over about two hours, the sauce will reduce by two cups of water; add two more. Do this at least twice during the process, meaning the sauce will cook about six hours total. I add the meatballs or sausage for the last half-hour of cooking. If you want mushrooms or green peppers, add them at the same time, so they don't overcook. I also turn off the heat, uncover the sauce and let it stand when I start the water for spaghetti or macaroni. Have grated Parmesan or Romano cheese on the table, along with the crushed red pepper for Nana Stella.